Best Litter Tray for a Kitten: Sizes and Styles Compared
Pick the right first litter tray and training is half won. Here's how to choose by size, entry height and style so your kitten gets it right from day one.
By Matt, founder · 28 January 2026 · Lived-experience guidance, not medical advice.
The best litter tray for a kitten is a small, open tray with a low front edge they can step over easily, ideally around 5cm high at the entry. Skip hoods, flaps and self-cleaning units to begin with, as kittens need to see in and out and learn what the tray is for. Start small, keep it shallow, and size up as they grow.
This is general advice from experience, not veterinary guidance. If your kitten is straining, going outside the tray repeatedly, or producing very little, speak to your vet, as those can signal a urinary problem.
Size: small now, bigger later
A tiny eight-week-old kitten can't climb into a tall storage-box tray, so start with a genuinely small, low-sided tray. The general rule for adult cats is that a litter tray should be about one and a half times the length of the cat from nose to base of tail. Your kitten will outgrow their first tray fast, so think of it as a stepping stone rather than a lifetime purchase, and have a larger one ready for around four to five months.
Browse the full cat litter trays range to compare entry heights and footprints before you commit.
Open vs covered trays
For a kitten learning the ropes, open wins almost every time.
- Open trays let your kitten see out, feel safe, and associate the space with toileting. They're easier for you to spot-clean and check what's normal.
- Covered (hooded) trays trap odour for you but can feel claustrophobic to a small cat, and the entry flap is one more hurdle during training. Many cats also dislike the way smells concentrate inside.
- Top-entry trays suit some adult cats but are a non-starter for kittens, who simply can't make the jump.
If you want the tidiness of a hood later, introduce it once toileting is reliable, and consider taking the door off at first.
Low entry matters most
The single most important feature for a kitten is a low entry litter tray. One high side that little legs can't clear is the most common reason a kitten ends up going beside the tray rather than in it. Look for at least one side around 5cm or less, with taller back and side walls to catch any enthusiastic digging. Some trays are moulded with a deliberate low cut-out at the front, which is ideal.
Where to put it and how many
Placement makes or breaks early training. Put the tray somewhere quiet and easy to reach, away from food and water bowls and away from the washing machine or anything that bangs. The widely used guideline is one tray per cat plus one spare, so even a single kitten benefits from two trays in different spots, especially in a larger home or over two floors.
Our step-by-step on Litter Training a Kitten: A Step-by-Step Guide covers the timing and routine in detail.
Materials and easy cleaning
Most kitten trays are moulded plastic, which is light, cheap and easy to wipe down, though it can scratch and hold odour over time, so plan to replace it every so often. Smooth, non-porous surfaces clean up fastest and resist staining. Avoid anything with awkward corners or textured bases that trap litter and waste, as a tray that's a pain to clean is one you'll clean less often.
Look for a tray you can lift, empty and rinse one-handed, since you'll be doing it daily. A slightly flexible rim helps you tip clumps out without spillage. If you're houseproud, a tray with a snap-on rim or low splash guard keeps stray litter contained while still leaving the all-important low entry point clear for little legs.
Litter, scoops and keeping it clean
Use a soft, fine, unscented clumping litter to start, fill it about 3 to 5cm deep, and avoid heavily perfumed types that can put a kitten off. Scoop at least once a day; kittens are fastidious and will reject a dirty tray quickly. A good metal scoop with the right slot size makes daily cleaning far less of a chore than a flimsy plastic one. A cat litter mat under the tray catches tracked litter and saves your floors.
Later on, once your kitten is older and reliably trained, you might consider one of the self-cleaning litter boxes, but they're best avoided during the learning phase as the movement and noise can frighten a young cat.
A quick first-tray checklist
- Open tray, no hood or flap
- One low side around 5cm for easy access
- Small footprint now, larger tray ready for 4 to 5 months
- Quiet location, away from food and water
- Two trays even for one kitten
- Fine, unscented clumping litter, 3 to 5cm deep
Get the tray right and most kittens train themselves with very little fuss.
For more on setting up your new arrival, see the New Kitten hub, the full cats range, or our guide to the Best Food Bowl for a Kitten: Whisker-Friendly Picks.
Common questions
What size litter tray does a kitten need?
Start with a small, low tray a tiny kitten can climb into, then size up to about one and a half times their body length as they grow. Most kittens need a bigger tray by four to five months.
Should I get a covered or open litter tray for my kitten?
Open is better for training, as kittens feel safer and learn faster when they can see out. You can introduce a hooded tray later once toileting is reliable.
How many litter trays does one kitten need?
The usual guideline is one tray per cat plus one spare, so even a single kitten benefits from two trays in separate, quiet locations.
What litter is best for a new kitten?
A soft, fine, unscented clumping litter is the easiest for kittens to use and the gentlest on their paws. Avoid heavily perfumed litters, which can deter them from the tray.
How often should I clean a kitten's litter tray?
Scoop at least once a day and do a full litter change regularly, as kittens are fussy and may avoid a dirty tray. A clean tray is one of the simplest ways to prevent accidents.
About the author
Matt — founder, Everypaw Supply Co
Matt started Everypaw Supply Co to make getting pets the good stuff simpler and fairer. Everything in these guides comes from real life with pets and a lot of trial and error — it's practical guidance, not veterinary advice. If a guide gets something wrong, tell him directly.